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Earlier in December January More Ramblings
December 21, 2000:
Thailand: I was thinking
more about how to keep the insides of my stomach where they belonged
-- on the inside -- and less about the fact that this would be
the last uncomfortable border crossing before I finished up my
trip. In several guidebooks and from most people you talk to
in Cambodia you'll hear that the temples of Angkor Wat are the
country's pride and national jewel. Their roads, on the other
hand, are their national disgrace. Monsoons and poor engineering
have left craters the size of tanks pocking even the best roads.
I had laughed in the central area of Laos a month and a half
earlier when it took over eight hours to drive just under 150
miles. This time I could only swallow and prepare myself for
the five hour trip across the 77 miles to the Cambodian/Thai
border town of Poipet.
"This road is awesome!" I yelled to Bill in the
front of the cab. We had bought tickets to ride up front with
the driver, nearly a dozen others clung to the bed of the truck,
loaded up with bags of rice and other goods to trade over the
border. I had been getting more and more annoyed with the ride
the bumpier and slower it got. I knocked from one side of the
cab to the other, hitting my head on the window every few minutes
each time the driver hit a pot hole to change the high pitched
Cambodian music in the tape deck. At which point I remembered
that in a few days I would drive to the airport and slide into
a business-class seat for my trip home. The ride became that
much more enjoyable from there on out.
The sunlight streamed through the cotton ball-ed sky and red
dust kicked up from the passing semis, together they covered
the ragged Cambodian countryside in a way that was so ugly it
appeared beautiful. Wild grasses poked up out of abandoned rice
paddies -- mines deterring anyone from stepping too near. Men
and women with lost appendages mixed 50/50 with the rest of the
road-side workers moving dirt and goods across the land. Just
a few years ago this stretch of road was impassable, due much
to the quality of the road as to the Khmer Rouge rebels nestled
beside it. Poppet, an ugly frontier town, was shelled daily.
Stepping out of Cambodia was like coming inside to cool air-con
from a sweltering booby-trapped sauna. The clouds lifted but
the temperature dropped. The roads became, well, roads again,
flat and straight. And a convenience store 200m from the welcome
gate sold Gatorade. The experience was rather bitter-sweet. But
I know that the conveniences here are nothing compared to those
of the States, where bitter-sweet will too soon turn sickly.
Not that I'll complain mind you, but I do find the comparisons
fascinating. Here, where every drink has to be tooth-rot sweet,
a good latte is near impossible to find, but once discovered
is savored that much more. To America, where Starbucks lolls
away on every street corner, and where you have to ask for sugar
in your beverage; savoring, perhaps, a free-moving freeway as
you sip on your coffee.
December 25, 2000:
Hawaii, USA: T.S. Eliot said,
"We shall not cease from exploration/ And the end of all
our exploring/ Will be to arrive where we started/ And know the
place for the first time." Whether Eliot was talking about
Kihei, Maui i'm none too sure. But nearly one year ago today
I began my exploring and have, after living out of a small (others
would argue large) backpack, returned to the place I started.
I'm not going so far as to say that I have finished exploring,
I'm not even going to say that I now know this place as if I've
seen it for the first time. In fact, the only reason I type this
quote here is because I'm returned and it says a bit about that.
Guess that pretty much sums up my feelings upon landing -- jet
lag. Yes, still fuzzy from my flight across the water so I'm
trying to justify not making any more sense than I usually do
here in my Ramblings.
I left out of Bangkok at 6am on the 24th. Six hours to Tokyo,
sleeping barely over an hour due to nerves and the desire to
sleep on my next leg, Japan to Hawaii. In Tokyo I had a long
layover to lounge about in two of the three business-class lounges.
I had the great fortune to get upgraded to business-class by
my Web guru and later months travel partner Bill. Bill left me
in Tokyo and continued on back to Seattle. I had over five hours
of layover there and had, since leaving the big man in black
and purple, gone for a walk through the miserable excuse for
an international airport, nothing but a few duty-free shops with
electronic gadgets and make-up. So I left and walked back to
where my gate is, 44, and hopped into the other business-class
lounge. Then I heard on the intercom that my flight had moved
gates -- now I was leaving out of gate 20 on the other side of
the airport, conveniently located next to the third and last
business-class lounge. Seeing the different lounges was, at least,
a good way to pass the time while in an airport. Unfortunately,
I thought, if the third is in line with the others I'm not
in for too much of a surprise. The same tune with different
singers, kind of like all this wonderful Christmas music that
was being pumped into the lounges and terminals. Lovely.
I was not looking forward to the flight, even though it was
business-class. (A fiddle rendition of Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer
started blaring out of the speakers. May need to finish beer
and proceed to next to cope with the next few hours, I thought
while slumped over a lounge chair staring out the window at the
cold Japanese day.) I wasn't sure how long the next particular
leg was. The dateline really screws me up. I left at 7:30pm and
arrived into Honolulu at 6:50am. Just like my stellar spelling
ability, niether can I do basic mathematics. If this machine
didn't have spell-check whoever read this would need a translator,
one who's fluent in Reed-Write. (Ha-ha ha. Where's my beer?)
So just excuse me for a second and I'll go flip over to my Date&Time
program on this computer. If it's 4:08pm in Tokyo, the 24th of
December, and it's 9:08pm in Honolulu, the 23rd of December,
than it means Japan is 14 hours ahead of Hawaii.
If your plane leaves Japan at 7:30pm, Dec 24th, going east
and arrives in Hawaii at 6:50am, Dec 24th, how long have you
been flying? Assuming you keep drinking the way you are, hell,
it could take you less than a few minutes. Beers aside however,
it was nearly a six and a half-hour journey. Not too bad (my
math and the length of the flight). It flu right by.
So what do I have to say about this "home coming"?
It's been a year since I left, one year since I've been in American
society. Lots have happened in this year. I could list off all
the intriguing experiences but they would, no doubt, display
my adeptness for surviving in the harsh place that is the Third
World, high-lighting my genius in difficult circumstances and
showing my special talents of entertainment in times of boredom
and prolonged quiet. I do not wish to be a braggart so I will
not flaunt these experiences here (see: soon to be published
book I write describing in detail how I just about killed myself
in every country I visited). I am looking forward to going home.
The comfort will be nice, as will the wardrobe choice, but the
ease of it will be overwhelming. I've gotten used to the exotic
and have romanticized its tribulations (like the intestinal parasites,
absolutely marvelous). Now I will have to go back to creating
my own disasters in order to keep my life interesting. Like I've
said before, my imagination is a bit on the large side, when
there's nothing like bombs and foreign language to keep it at
bay my mind makes up small worlds to take reality's place. (This
all may be a great recipe for the writing of my book. I'll be
able to be imaginative about real unbelievable experiences, hopefully
making them that much more interesting. We'll see.)
So after arriving into Maui at 8am, I came back to the little
place my family and I stay, showered, and fell asleep only to
be woken up at 5pm for Christmas Eve activities. That night I
rolled off to bed at midnight and rolled out of bed at 3:30am;
I've been mumbling like an idiot all day. Now with a belly full
of turkey and potatoes, a warm glass of milk, I'm trying to bribe
my system into a long night's rest.
I wanted to say thank you to all of you who've kept up with
me through the months, voiced or unvoiced. It was an experience,
the beginning of many more to come.
I will continue to update this section, detailing the next
step for therewewere. At present the next hard-copy magazine
will be published March 1. Get ready.
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