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December 19, 2000:

 Said to be one of the largest temple complexes in the world, Angkor Wat (actually the name of the central temple inside the complex) will leave even the most pessimistic visitor open mouthed. The first day I spent at the site we got a late start -- 10am. The small group of four I was touring the temples with over the next three days figured we should ease into the temple experience. The next few days however, sunrise was the goal. Five o'clock comes awfully early, says my father, and after three days straight of hanging out with it I more than agree. You sort of rumble over the poor roads of Siem Reap to the temple complex, eyes barely open; you feel like you're in a movie or some type of dream neither-world planet. That is, until the other 1,000 travelers show up to stare at the sun peaking over the horizon and hitting the old pile of rocks. But shortly after the sky lightens people drain out of the main Angkor wat on their way to visit one of the 40 other wats inside the complex, you're left pretty much alone to wonder through the old hallways and steps in peace.

The second sunrise I saw I could have been in a movie. The modern world crashed into Angkor as a Japanese director shouted directions while a couple of Cambodians translated for the crew. Smoking buckets gave a foggy feel to the early morning start of the day. I sat on a step and watched, along with a few of the temple monks, the crew shoot a scene or two.


(The famous ANGKOR WAT
The complex was built roughly between the 9th and the late 12th centuries. Angkor Wat itself (shown here) was constructed towards the end of the era in the 11 hundreds.)

Now, after setting the alarm for 5:45am, I'm getting ready for my third early morning start to the day. But instead of heading out to see some of the most impressive stone structures in the world, I'm going to be jumping on a pickup on my way back to Bangkok. After nearly 12 months on the road I have just four



















(With more than 40 different sites open to the public, three days is not nearly enough time to visit each individual area. Driving from place to place, you can only imagine what's still out there covered in jungle, protected from discovery by marsh lands and land mines.



There's just too much to show. Around every bend a new detail pops up. Everything left by the great Angkor period remains in stone, and if you let your mind ponder the fact that most of this great rock was covered with even more intricate wood pieces the complex must have been unimaginable.)









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